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Choose a route less traveled. Soak up the feeling of
stepping into a rural past set apart from cell phone or computer chip. Create
your own self-directed tour of the Bonnechere and Madawaska River Valleys where
timber makers cut and squared logs and sent them down the slides and rapids to
the Ottawa and St. Lawrence. Whether you approach from the headwaters in
Algonquin Park or from Chats Lake on the Ottawa River, you will be steeped in
the lore of pristine white water and flat water where descendants of the
pioneer loggers have built settlements and small businesses.
Renfrew, located at the second log chute boasts the
OBrien Theatre, home of an operational Theatre Organ, along with the
McDougal Mill Museum. To the pioneers, the rivers were the first roads. Today,
if you start at the east from Highway 17, you can travel parallel to the
Bonnechere along the Highway 60 corridor, passing from Renfrew through the
settlements of the founding Scots, Irish and Polish to Douglas, the leprechaun
capital, a centre for crafts, a general store, and bed and breakfast
accommodation.
In Douglas, take the road to the world famous Bonnechere
Caves and be a spelunker. From the Caves it is a short run to Eganville,
namesake of Ottawa Valley timber king John Egan, site of the fifth chute on the
river, and the location of Bonnechere Museum, which presents the story of the
river, its people, and a model log chute. A walk in the park above an outlier
of Ordovician limestone is refreshing and there are several good restaurants.
Highway 60 west leads to Golden Lakes Aboriginal site,
the Algonquin Culture and Heritage Centre, and to a craft store at Deacon
called the Algonquin Trading Post. Beyond lies Killaloe, named by James
Bonfield, timber king of the Bonnechere. You can head north to Round Lake and
the relaxation of Bonnechere Parks, or search out the spirits of the Little
Bonnechere. Westward again on 60 takes you to the Wilno lookout where an
historic plaque describes Wilno as Canadas first Polish settlement; it is
also the home of Stone Fence Theatre, presenters of the lore and talents of the
Ottawa Valley on stage in small community performances.
Still to the west, lies Barrys Bay. If you stay on 60
west, you can relax and dine at Madawaska Valley Inn. By now, you will have
retraced many of the steps of timber giants OBrien, Barnet, McDonell,
McKay, Egan, Bonfield and Turner, McLachlin and McRae, Omanique, and John
Rudolphus Booth who had the contract to supply the timber for Canadas
first parliament buildings and built a railway to American markets. The timber
makers searched out the great pineries that extended into the reaches of what
is now Algonquin Park where you can visit Loggers Museum.
Travelers may approach the valleys from the Park as well as
coming north on 62. Regardless of the arrival point, there is another
must see route with stone and rail fences and a mix of rolling and
abrupt hills and hilltop views. From Barrys Bay, go south on 62. Enjoy
the South of 60 arts Centre and proceed along Kaminiskeg Lake, where a dead man
saved three from drowning when the Mayflower sank.
To continue your journey parallel to the Madawaska, watch
for Highway, which leads to the white water of Palmer Rapids or to Aqua Rose
Gems and Minerals in Quadeville. This is an astounding trip amid the glory of
autumn colours. An option at this point is the road to Rockingham to visit the
historic Anglican Church. You will notice that many of the rural communities
still have lumbering as a main part of their economy.
Traveling east on 515 leads to an intersection with Highway
512. You have another choice here. Heading north takes you to a village of
past-greatness, Brudenell, which once boasted three hotels, a race track,
blacksmith shops, and the Costello store which provided winter supplies to the
loggers heading into the lumber camps, and ran a tab for their families. If you
go south on Highway 512, you come to Foymount, the highest populated point in
Ontario, site of the Pine Tree Line radar station, Black Water Designs factory
outlet, and the Whip-poor-will Tea Room a great place to have lunch and
enjoy the view.
If time or endurance is an influence, following 512 will
bring you back to Eganville. However, you should not miss the historic Opeongo
Line which swings south about a mile east of Foymount. The Opeongo Line leads
you along the south side of Lake Clear, down Plaunts Mountain overlooking
Turner and Blueberry Island to the sparkling waters of Opeongo Mountain Trout
Farm. The famous Opeongo settlement road leads south and east to The Stopping
Place. At this point you can take the McGrath Road to 41 and Eganville or
advance through Esmonde to intersect with Highway 41. Travel south on 41 brings
you to Dacre where you can turn east to visit the Balaclava mill and return to
Douglas, or continue south through Shamrock, returning to Renfrew. Memories are
made of such rural routes, exploring the historical roots and landscapes of the
Bonnechere and Madawaska Valleys. |
Routes to Our Roots
Symbols, Totems
Bonnechere
River Facts
The Opeongo Line
The Highway 60
Corridor
Genealogy
John Egan
The Bonnechere
road
The Charles
Thomas story
"Bonnechere" What does it mean?
Museum related news
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